Is There Such a thing as too much Cheese?: June 2009

Tuesday, 30 June 2009

Kym and Rachael come to play

With enough time to wash the sheets and towels and get the house clean, we welcomed our next round of visitors, my lovely brother and sister-in-law.

Fresh of the plane from Canada, they were ready to hit the ground running despite being a bit jet-lagged and we set out to enjoy the gorgeous weather the Cote d’Azur is turning on at the moment, and I put my tour guide hat back on.

A particularly great day was spent at my favourite little village around here - St Paul de Vence , which seems to get prettier every time I visit and we had a delightful lunch under the shade of a leafy green tree enjoying the view. I also managed to hunt down birthday pressies for two very special ladies – Cus and George, I hope they like their hand crafted/painted French goodies. Xx

We visited the perfume factory at Grasse, spent some time on the beach, did a trip to our local La Bocca markets and enjoyed some chilled out balcony time. Kym and Rachael also braved the journey to and from Monaco solo as I had a job interview to attend (more on that to come!) Unfortunately M was working a lot during this period, so we generally only saw him briefly at night, thus the decision for him to take the Friday off work and for us to hire a car so we could travel further afield was certainly a good one.

It turned out, actually, to be a fabulous decision as, despite spending quite a lot of time in the car and chewing through nearly 900km, we got to see some towns and villages right in the midst of Provence and re-visit the Gorges du Verdon – where we went hiking, which meant – green fields, hill perched villages, medieval fountains, lavender, provincial hand painted pottery, deep gorges, rivers, lakes and ochre. Yes. Ochre.

One of the coolest towns we visited was Roussillon which is a town in the Luberon situated in one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world. Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries, which were amazing – and messy – to walk through. Thongs were a BAD choice.

We also visited the pretty but eerily deserted Simiane la Rotonde, the gorgeous Gordes, Castellane – where we stumbled upon a bike race about to begin, the various lookouts along the deeeeeep Gorges du Verdon (second biggest canyon in the world after, you know, the Grand one) the odd but very endearing and full of awesome hand painted pottery Moustiers Ste Marie and Fontaine de Vaucluse, which is the site of a natural spring and also the site of a delicious dinner we had on Barb and Pete – thanks guys!

All in all it was a jam-packed and yet still relaxing, fun time. Kym and Rachael were such lovely, generous, kind guests who were so happy to do whatever, which works well if you have a tendency to be bossy, like M. We really enjoyed having them!

Kym and Rachael in St Paul de Vence

Our lovely lunch in St Paul

Roussillon

Gordes = pretty

At Fontaine de Vaucluse - a natural spring some 300m deep. Very Norsca-ad-esque

The Gorge du Verdon

Some slightly precarious driving - which M handled with aplomb

Moustiers Ste Marie

ok...weird

I have no idea how my Venice blog ended up below my Italian Riviera one, the world has gone a little topsy turvey.

To keep the little narrative in order, read Ialian Riviera + Cinque Terra BEFORE Venice.

Then again......this is probably only significant to me.

As you were.

Italian Riviera + Cinque terra

We headed over the border to Italy on the Thursday – catching our local train to Ventimiglia and then a fairly gross, stinky train to Rapallo.

We originally thought we would stay in Portofino, but since none of us has a spare couple of thousand dollars, we found a place in Rapallo, which is just around the coast, and we were pleasantly surprised. Rapallo has a lovely, sleepy beachside town feeling to it – a bit like Brighton in England or even Victor – but a much much older Victor!

The first evening (which was just the three of us + Coco, M didn’t get in until midnight) we just wandered around, had a few drinks, some gelati, an early dinner and a peaceful night. The hotel was good too – certainly nor 5 star luxury, but we’d booked a family room and it did actually have 2 separate rooms except the two extra beds were like fold down bunks – which made us feel like we were on a ship – but were actually really comfortable! The room and bathrooms were kept meticulously clean and the staff were really helpful.

We got up the next day only to find the skies overcast and our plan to catch a boat around to Portofino scuttled by the “bad weather” – we decided that the boat drivers must have wanted a day off, as the weather really wasn’t that bad and it got better as the day went on, but even in the afternoon, when we were standing in glorious sunshine – nope. Still no boats.

So after negotiating the buses – we arrived in Portofino. It really does look just like the postcards, it is TINY and such a weird blend of this little, coastal fishing village and designer shops. Where we sat and had lunch was right next door to a Louis Vuitton store, and there were lots of people rushing around getting a fancy yacht display set up, complete with three BEAUTIFUL yachts.

Walking around Portofino – especially the climb up to the lookout, where there were amazing gardens and villas tucked away behind high stone walls, was so lovely, in fact, the whole day was lovely and we obviously timed our visit right as there really weren’t that many people there. We capped it off with a few drinks sitting over the water, just soaking up the view.

Once home the boys ( I think it was mostly M, but Lovers went along with it) decided that we would try and track down the mini golf course we’d seen signs for. Sure! As we were approaching the city limits, after about 40min of walking, we thought we might have made a bad choice – it was about 7.30pm on a Friday night, so when we finally found the place and the gate was locked, we all kind of shrugged our shoulders. Then this little old lady waddled down to us – we thought she was going to tell us off – but no, she let us in, took our money, gave us our clubs, tunned the radio into the best of the 80s love ballads and even produced some ice cold Coronas! Hilarious. The competition itself was fairly amusing, especially the par 2 that M managed an impressive 16 shots on and Lovers’ final shot for the evening that cleared 2 fences. I’ll also point out that I putt like a dream, and totally kicked butt.

After the mini golf extravaganza was completed we went searching for somewhere to eat and we stumbled upon the most wonderful little restaurant and had one of the most delicious meals ever. Beautiful wood oven pizza for the boys and house made pastas and sauces for me and Holly, a couple of carafes of rosé and finished up with Tiramisu. Divine. An awesome day.

The next day we set off on the train around to Cinque terra – which is comprised of five little towns and coastline that are all part of a national park and are full of walks and trails. Unfortunately we lucked out a little with the weather – it was a little drizzly and overcast – which resulted in the frizziest hair I’ve experienced in awhile, and meant that the spectacular views one sees on postcards were a little ... muted. We also felt that is wasn’t always entirely clear where you were meant to go, but the walk between towns itself was quite pleasant and M fulfilled his aim of having a different kind of filled foccacia bread at every village – so yummy.

We had planned to go back to the same restaurant and had, in fact, made a booking the night before (where the truly delightful waiter pointed out that the way I was pronouncing the number nine – meant that it sounded like I was saying I wanted to F... him up the bum. Whoops. He thought it was hilarious!!) but the Coconut was a little unwell, so we had pizzas and UNO in the hotel room – and lots of laughs!

The next day the Lovedays had to bid farewell to Ramsey as he headed back to Cannes and the rest of us moved on to Venice!

I love this photo - lovely Lovedays in Rapallo looking tanned and relaxed

Having dinner in Rapallo - the first night, this isn't the amazing restauarnt, I don't have photos of that, was too busy stuffing my face!

In Portofino

Walking up above Portofino. I wrote this on my facebook, but it still cracks me up; Lovers described this view as "you know, like the painting everyone has in their toilet". Oh Lovers, I adore you and your positive/wacky spin on everything.

Portofino is oh so pretty. Yachts for fancy-smancy promotional thing in the foreground. Noice

Rapallo castle at night.

Just after the mini golf tournament, on the way to a delicious dinner.

Such a brilliant day!

Walking around Cinque Terra - I love Coco's expression here...'hmmm, not sure about this!'

Cinque Terra. Yes, Coco is in there. No, Lovers hasn't grown an abnormaly high up left breast.

Jesus would have been great in Venice, he could have just walked all over the place

Ha ha - the joke isn't mine but it IS funny.

We had a great time in Venice. I think we can safely say that we saw - if not all of it, a whole large chunk of it. After an early night on the Sunday we got going early on Monday and our aim to simply get lost amongst the many lanes, alleyways and bridges was certainly achieved, which allowed us to stumble upon a multitude of beautiful artisan shops, little squares, dead ends, markets, HUGE groups of tourists - all colour coded and numbered according to their tour group like cattle - Ew, and plenty of sights.

One big let down in Venice was the food. The meals we had varied between ok and rancid, which was disappointing, especially as it wasn't like we were asking for Vietnamese noodles or Sushi, we were ordering Pizza and Pasta - in ITALY, so we hadn't really braced ourselves for the frozen/microwaved/possible poisonous things we were served. The gelati was an exception to this. We were staying on the Lido island - which had a great vibe in itself but quite different to Venice proper, and the gelati shop there - best. Yep, I'm calling it, BEST. And I've done the leg...err..stomach work to qualify this judgement.

I could do a lot, A LOT of damage to the finances in Venice, and when I actually have some moolah, I hope to return. As it was I bought a couple of pairs of Murano glass earrings, a present for Tessa's 13th Birthday (a teenager! I know! How frightening!) some cool, hand pressed "Ex Libris" cards for my beloved books from this AWESOME shop and some cards depicting the Comedia dell'arte characters which I plan to put in a frame. I really liked a few masks but the ones I liked were way mucho expensivo. And I always get a creepy "Eyes Wide Shut" vibe when I look at some of them now too. Damn you Tom Cruise, you ruin EVERYTHING!

The day we spent visiting the glass factories on Murano island - complete with glass blowing demonstration, was brilliant and again, came sooooo close to buying a vase but..., a little voice in my head (that weirdly, sounds an awful lot like a scolding from M) told me not to. I settled for a little fish in a little fish bowl which ... I really like but realise it's rather random. Holly and Lovers payed me out quite unfairly about my little fish. Harsh.

And you know what? In hindsight, I know I'll go back to Venice, and if i really want a Murano glass vase next time, I'll get one, but for now the experience of visiting this amazing, utterly unique and captivating city with my dear friends is enough of a treasure. (aww, aren't I sweet.)

ha ha - apparently these were "the best caffe lattes EVER". Side effects seemed to be strange Italian impersonations 'mamma mia', 'Penne Gamberi for $9.90.'

Our Gondola ride. Touristy? - Yes. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? - Yup.

The view of Venice - and St Mark's Basilica, from the top of the bell tower

The bell tower - Campanile di San Marco

St Mark's

At the end of my part of the holiday - Lovedays go off to Florence and Rome and I return home to Cannes.

A wonderful holiday, a multitude of great memories. x

Wednesday, 24 June 2009

The Coconut

Just a quick one to share a few particularly cute photos of "The Nut".

She was such fun to travel with!

In Venice

Aww. Asleep in the 'Hug'a'bub' on the Cinque Terra walk

This 'was' Holly's gelati in Portofino. It's now Coco's.

Dinner in Rapallo. I don't have a photo of the face she made when the waiter put her in their version of a high-chair, but it was HI-larious. She was all like "oh no you didn't!"

"Big Fish....Little Fish.....Card-board-box" - the best/worst song ever. Damn you Bob the Builder and your catchy show tunes.

'Uh, hello? I am SOOO not asleep in here!'

Teethy smile!

Her smile is a full mouth teethy grin and it's ADORABLE.

She has a wave that evolved slowly over the holiday, starting off as a full arm motion, modifying into a wrist swivel that then became an up and down flick. She would wave enthusiastically at people, only when they wern't looking, when they waved back, shyness. Unless you were a special person, then you got lots of waves.

Her hilarious (even though we shouldn't have been laughing) hypo spazz-outs at bed time where she'd go like an energiser bunny and then crash next to Grandpa Loveday. (Lovers goes to bed with the sun).

Her feet are, according to her, the best thing ever and taste delicious. Which meant lots of nappy-flasing! So funny.

She got a few mosquito bites on her cheeks which meant she had to ensure Holly and I singing "Spotty Face" to the tune of Lady Gaga's "pokerface" for several days.

She went off like a frog in a sock to "Big Fish Little Fish Cardboard Box" and even loved the dirty version we made up on the train back from Cinque Terra that started "Big Tits Little Tits....." and I'll leave it there!

Funniest moment - probably when we were playing mini golf and Ramsey could NOT hit the ball through the obstacle. We were all pissing ourselves and suddenly Coco started laughing and laughing and laughing. Holly and I nearly wet our pants, even she thought it was hilarious.

(side note: Par 2 - Ramsey's score on this hole? 16.)

She is the lovliest little person, and it was so much fun spending time with her. xx

The Lovedays rock the Riviera

After the whirlwind of sightseeing/den of illness and theft that was Paris, we all felt it was pretty nice to throw our suitcases down and relax a little at Casa Ramsey. Although M had to work, which he wasn’t loving, the evenings were spent on the Peter Balconio eating, drinking the mini beers they sell here and having lighthearted/stupid/profound conversations.

I also got to continue playing tour guide, which was fun, and show people around my ‘hood.

We spent some time close to home – visiting La Plage (the beach for all you anglo-files) which included everyone’s first swim in the Mediterranean and some seriously cute nudie rudie-ness from Coco, and going to the local La Bocca markets for fresh fruit and veg. Some home cooked meals and less hectic days had everyone feeling ready to roll again.

I took my guests to visit the Fragonard Perfume factory at Grasse, which is great and I pushed Coco around rather than listen to the tour for the 4th time (I have since been a 5th time and think I need to start requesting a commission and cut of the profits!) We left smelling quite frankly delicious and the next week we continued to delight in how amazing we smelt with our new, exclusive French fragrances.

We paid big bucks to take the more scenic ferry trip to St Tropez and had a great day exploring the huge markets there, marvelling at the extremely expensive shops, the boats, the orange leathery women (who are everywhere at the moment. If you crossed a leather handbag, an Oompa Lumpa and a stick insect, you’d have a pretty good idea of what these women look like. It’s like hide stretched over skeleton, so gross.) Holly continued her genius skill at finding us “off the main path” restaurants with better prices and food, and despite the extremely French and therefore rude waiter, we had a great lunch.

A day spent in Monaco was definitely a highlight. The crowds from the Grand Prix had disappeared so the town was quiet and it was a spectacular day weather-wise, so we all took a lot of photos. None more so than Lovers, who seemed to have transformed into a Japanese tourist and took well over 300 photos that day, mostly of the absolutely drool-worth yachts.

We went to the island off the coast of Cannes – St Honorat for a picnic lunch and a wander and had another day to roam around Cannes before we had a lovely dinner at M and my favourite little French restaurant “Aux Bons Enfants”.

I think the Lovedays enjoyed staying with us – getting a chance to see where we live and us in our ‘natural habitat’. We certainly loved having them, all the fun trips but more than anything, just chilling out on the balcony with a few drinks, solving the world’s problems.

Below are LOTS of photos - there are even more on Facebook. A lot of these are courtesy of Holly and Mark "Kenichi-wan Fuji-Film" - they often got the best shots so, with their kind permission and cut of the royalties, I am using some of theirs.

In Paris - bit of a back track but there are a couple of good piccys

Bec the Tour Guide! Onwards people, no dilly-dallying! (I took my job very seriously!)

At Versailes.

A little up close and personal of me, but it does show the awesome cuteness of the Coconut asleep, like a little Koala. Awww.

Lunch on the Peter Balconio

"Pears are delicious...nom nom nom"

Lovers in pre-wind down phase....or was that pre-pre wind down phase?? ha.

What happens when fluffy baby hair meets greasy spray suncream. It's mohawk time!

We are utterly charming. This was just after M offered to do a reading for me with Leisa's Angel Cards only to prove his "it's all just odds" arguement. Hilarity.